"Topsy-Turvy: A Camera Obscura Installation," was on temporary display in New York's Madison Square Park. |
So the kit was put away in a desk drawer and although I would often come across it during the past decade, I still couldn't imagine taking that first photo.
Then earlier this month I came across a tweet about a camera obscura on display in New York City's Madison Square Park and all of a sudden I realized that I now had the perfect first photograph for my pinhole camera. A pinhole photograph of a pinhole camera. That was it.
Wood pinhole photography kit complete with everything you need to develop your photographs. |
I retrieved the kit from my desk and started looking through the instructions while at the same time planning my day trip to New York. The kit came with everything I needed to construct the camera, plus everything I needed to develop the paper. I wasn't even deterred when I noticed the developer and fixer had expired in 2008.
The pinhole camera was simple to construct and took about 15 minutes to build. I did make a slight modification to the finished camera by adding a 1/2 inch piece of MDF board to the bottom of the camera so I could insert a 1/4"-20 T-Nut so I could attach my camera to a tripod.
Almost complete pinhole camera. Still need to finish the paint job and make additional modifications to the base. |
The night before I left for New York I went into the darkroom/bathroom, plugged in the safelight and loaded a 3x3 inch piece of photographic paper into the camera.
I arrived in New York around 10:30 a.m. the next day and walked the nine blocks to Madison Square Park and quickly located the camera obscura at the south end of the park aimed at the historic Flat Iron Building. A couple was just exiting the camera when I arrived so along with the attendant I stepped inside and after a few minutes my eyes adjusted and the surrounding area came into focus. To me, it is fascinating to realize that this is exactly what it would look like if I could step inside the small pinhole camera I had in my bag.
When I exited the camera I walked around the area for a while thinking about the photograph I was about to take. I literally only had one shot and not having used this camera before I wasn't sure what the focal length would be or how long of an exposure to use. The pamphlet that came with the kit did offer suggested exposure times based on the available light.
My pinhole camera all set to take a 45-second exposure of the camera obscura. |
After I closed the cover I was done. Seemed anticlimactic. I stuck the box back into my bag and went about the rest of the day taking photos of New York City.
I returned home around 11:45 that night and briefly thought that I should wait until the next day to process the photograph, but soon realized that was not going to happen. So once again I set up my makeshift darkroom and went about mixing the developer and fixer. The last time I was in a darkroom was 1997 but when I smelled the fixer it was like I was there yesterday.
Pinhole #1. |
The Flat Iron Building at left as seen upside down and backward inside the camera obscura. |
The second method and the one that I choose is to photograph the pinhole photograph with a digital camera and then using a program such as Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop, flip the tone curve and rotate horizontally to get a corrected image. I explained this process in my blog post about using your digital camera to copy old negatives.
I have some exciting things planned for this pinhole camera and with camera obscuras in the future, so keep reading this blog and be sure to follow me on Twitter.
2 comments:
Good one John!
And oh how I know that smell of fixer and dektol myself. My thumb used to be calibrated to 68 degrees F too.
(Hint: You could have warmed the developer up with some warm water, that that would have helped the developing time too.)
One other "trick" I have seen and wanted to try with a pinhole camera is that you take a 6" piece of PVC pipe, and get two end caps for it. Paint the insides black, and cement one end on, and leave the other cap a "tight fit" or use some tape to hold it in place. Then put the pinhole in the middle/side of the pipe and have the sheet film "curve" inside the camera opposite the pinhole. You can supposedly use some cemented in strips of plastic to help hold the film in pace if it is smaller than the pipe will hold naturally. The wide angle fisheye effect from the developed image is supposedly quite dramatic, since you flaten the film back out when you develop the image.
Peter, That's a great suggestion, warming up the developer would have helped. I am intrigued by your suggestion for a pinhole camera. Many possibilities out there for sure.
I was thinking something larger, maybe on wheels that can be towed behind a car. Of course my family thinks i'm a little crazy.
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